A Guide to Wrinkle Creams

Let’s face it—everyone wants beautiful, radiant, younger-looking skin. And the market is full of products claiming to reverse the aging process, causing wrinkles and fine lines to disappear. But the effectiveness of these products actually depends on a number of factors.



The shelves of every cosmetics shop, supermarket, pharmacy, and department store are stocked full with a huge variety of creams, lotions, and other concoctions. Advertisements on the Internet entice thousands of people, boasting of miracle creations and elixirs. What do these products have in common? They all claim to possess the ability to prevent, stop, or reverse the skin’s natural aging process, treating damage, and revealing the beautiful skin we all have underneath. But do these products really work? And what should consumers know before choosing a product?

The effectiveness of the countless brands of wrinkle creams available is a touchy subject. While research suggests that some of the common ingredients in wrinkle creams contain ingredients that may improve the appearance of wrinkles, no real scientific studies have been conducted. With the Food and Drug Administration recognizing wrinkle creams and various other anti-aging products as cosmetics, and therefore of no medical value, no real research has gone into proving, or disproving, the effectiveness of many of these products.

So does this mean that consumers should avoid the wrinkle cream market entirely? Not necessarily. Of course, if you’re looking for a quick, over-night, miracle product in a bottle, you’re probably setting yourself up for disappointment. But if you’re seeking a product to improve the appearance of your skin, and are willing to commit to a disciplined regimen over a long period of time, some products may actually work. It’s just a matter of being well informed, and knowing what to look for and why.

What is in anti-wrinkle creams?

With so many diverse products on the market, it’s hard to know which active ingredients are the most effective, why, and where to find them.

Some of the most effective active ingredients for improving the appearance of wrinkles are:

1. Retinol is a vitamin A compound, and was the first antioxidant to be used in nonprescription wrinkle creams. It works by neutralizing free radicals (unstable oxygen molecules that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles), posing a less potent alternative to the commonly used tretinoin, a vitamin A derivative approved by the FDA for topical wrinkle treatment by prescription. Retinol-based products should be avoided during pregnancy, however, as they have been proven to increase the likelihood of birth defects.
2. Hydroxy Acids, such as alpha, beta, and poly hydroxy acids, are synthetic versions of acids derived from sugar-containing fruits. They are known to be effective in exfoliation of the skin, stimulating the growth of smooth, even new skin. It’s important to always use proper sun protection while using products with hydroxy acids, as it causes the skin to become more sensitive.
3. Coenzyme Q10 helps to regulate energy production in cells. It can be used to reduce fine wrinkles around the eyes or to protect the skin from sun damage, preventing further wrinkling.
4. Copper Peptides are copper-based substances. Copper is an element found in every cell and, when combined with small protein fragments, called peptides, can accelerate the healing process and stimulate the production of collagen. It may also enhance the effectiveness of powerful antioxidants.
5. Kinetin is a popular plant growth factor, rumored to improve wrinkles and uneven pigmentation. Utilizing a system of minimal irritation to the skin, researchers believe that kinetin assists the skin to retain moisture and stimulates the production of collagen, though it is unclear how it works. Kinetin may also be a powerful antioxidant.
6. Tea extracts are known for their anti-inflammatory properties. While green tea is the most commonly used in anti-winkle creams, black and oolong tea also contain compounds with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

How can I judge the safety and effectiveness?

As cosmetic products, the FDA regulates wrinkle creams much less strictly than it does drugs. In fact, such products are hardly regulated at all. Cosmetic products are not required to undergo the same rigorous testing for safety before their approval to enter the market. And no official evaluations are conducted to determine the effectiveness of these products, leaving much of the over-the-counter wrinkle-cream industry with no guarantees of any sort.

The FDA only becomes involved when anti-wrinkle products are portrayed in advertisements as drugs, or if they contain ingredients that may be potentially harmful to consumers.

When choosing an anti-wrinkle cream, it’s important to keep the following points in mind:

Over-the-counter anti-wrinkle creams have lower doses. Since these products are not distributed by prescription, they have lower concentrations of active ingredients, often meaning the products’ results are limited and short-lived.

The industry is severely lacking research. A great deal of research has been done on various ingredients rumored to fade the appearance of wrinkles. Most nonprescription anti-wrinkle creams, however, have not undergone this research, and thus their effectiveness has not been officially valuated.

There is no cost: effectiveness ratio. It’s important to note that just because one particular product is more costly, it does not mean that it’s more effective. In fact, cost generally has no relationship whatsoever to effectiveness in this industry.

High commitment for low results. Most of these products require consistent use, multiple times a day, for many months before improvements can be noticed. And even still, there’s no guarantee that the results will last once use of the product has been discontinued.

Potential side effects do exist. Common side effects associated with anti-wrinkle creams are skin irritation, rashes, burning, or redness. Ensuring that you read and properly follow the provided instructions can minimize your chances of unwanted side effects.

So what should I do for my wrinkles?

If you’re going to use a non-prescription anti-wrinkle cream, make sure you take into consideration how often to use it, the type and amount of active ingredient, and exactly what kind of results you’re hoping for. But even when the directions are followed precisely, there’s no guarantee that your anti-wrinkle cream will improve the appearance of your skin, and fade wrinkles and fine lines.

But all hope is not lost! There are other ways to improve and maintain your skin’s health and youthful appearance that do not come in an expensive jar.

Here are some tips to reduce wrinkles in your skin:

1. Protect your skin from the sun.

Protecting your skin from the sun is one of the simplest, but most important, things you can do to minimize the natural effects of aging.

Sun exposure is one of the primary reasons for skin problems and premature aging. In fact, exposure to harmful UV rays accumulated over a lifetime causes most of the unwanted changes associated with aging, such as wrinkles, age spots, freckles, and rough, dry skin. But the negative effects of sun exposure go beyond purely cosmetic issues. These harsh UV rays found in natural sunlight and tanning beds often cause much more serious health problems, such as skin cancer.

So what can you do to protect yourself and your skin from harmful ultraviolet rays? Use sun protection as part of your daily facial skin care regime, minimize exposure to the sun during prime hours, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., cover yourself with clothing and hats, and try to remain in the shade when outdoors, and always use sunscreen prior to sun exposure, with regular reapplication.

Many products today have built-in sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or 30, and offer protection from UVA and UVB rays. Try to choose cosmetics that include these very important qualities.

2. Moisturize.

Applying a moisturizer after a warm face wash or shower is one of the best things you can do to restore natural moisture to the skin, and maintain a healthy, radiant complexion. There are plenty of moisturizers on the market, so just find the one that fits your skin type! Just be sure to always use an oil-free moisturizer, particularly on the face, to prevent greasy skin and breakouts.

3. Don’t Smoke.

Smoking rapidly accelerates the effects of aging on the skin. Inhaling smoke decreases blood flow, depriving skin of oxygen and important nutrients, such as vitamin A, that are essential for healthy skin. In fact, even second-hand exposure to smoke contributes to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, decreased strength, and discoloration of the skin. Once the collagen and elastins in your skin are damaged, there’s no getting them back.

If you’re interested in creating a comprehensive, personalized skin-care regimen, your best bet is to see a dermatologist. Your doctor can create a plan just for you by first assessing your skin type, evaluating the condition of your skin, and recommending products. You can also get information on medical treatments to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, such as prescription creams, Botox, injections, or skin resurfacing procedures.